The odometer on the RS has been broken for quite a while. Pretty much it rolled over to 100,000 miles and then quit working.
I took it apart a while ago, but couldn’t figure out how to fix it at the time. No idea why not.
In any case, I took it apart again and this time I think I figured it out.
A little work to report and no photos.
Last night I washed the RS and then after dinner I started taking parts off.
I removed both front brake calipers and the right side handle bar controls. I’ll be rebuilding the calipers and the master cylinder.
In addition I drained the gas (varnish) out of the gas tank and removed the tank and seat. The instrument cluster also came off so I can try and repair the odometer.
I’m waiting for parts for the rebuilds, but I’ll probably start on the odometer soon.
I have a 1981 BMW R100RS in the back of my garage. It’s been parked there for quite a while now. I bought it in 1989, and I used to ride the heck out of it, but it needs a bunch of work, so I parked it. Now that I have sold the Yamaha FJ1200 I have some cash to purchase the parts to fix it up again.
And so it begins.
The limit switches seemed to be working great, and I was loving being able to home the machine and not have to re-zero my work all the time.
I even got some work done.
Then I tried to do some surfacing that used the YZ plane. Something about lots of Z movement made the limit switches randomly trip.
So I thought about it a bit, then I found some shielded 22 AWG 5 conductor cable for $0.33 a foot and rewired the whole machine.
I don’t know why it took me so long, but I finally got around to installing the limit switches on my ShapeOko.
I bought the switches when I bought the machine, but never wired them up. I suppose my hesitance was related to all the people on the forum posting about issues with limit switches. But once I figured out how they worked, it was pretty easy. The mechanics of triggering them was more difficult to figure out than the wiring.
When we last heard about the LuvBus Bil and I had gotten the head out and he was going to send it out to have it flattened so we could re-install it.
Unfortunately the shop he sent it to told him it was too warped to flatten. Damn.
So Bil spent a bunch of time trying to locate a new (used) motor to swap in.
Last week he finally found one. So I arranged to borrow an engine hoist and we made the swap this weekend. We spent all day Saturday and a couple of hours on it Sunday and then had to stop until Bil can get a couple of parts. But it’s about 95% done.
I got a request from a friend to see if I could make some Smith and Wesson revolver grips for him. I told him “sure, send me a set and I’ll see what I can do.”
It was a long and interesting process. The grips are an interesting shape and I decided I wanted to 3D model and machine them.
I guess I neglected to post about putting the top profile on the 1911 grips. I came up with a good tool chain – I drew the part as a solid model in Autodesk Inventor, exported an STL file and machined it with FreeMill (can’t beat the price.) It was pretty easy and turned out quite well.
I fixed up my grip fixture and milled the perimeter profile on a pair of grips tonight!
Okay, yesterday’s installment found me annoyed at the accuracy of my ShapeOko.
This evening I fixed it for real. Repeatable and within the limits I set for myself.
Now I’m happy.
